Our hotel for our first two nights in Spain was just off Puerta del Sol, “ground zero” of the city, according to our bible, Rick Steve’s Spanish guidebook. (Throughout the trip, whenever we were lost or looking for a place to eat or stay, we’d say “What does Rick say?”) When we got there at about 10:00 in the morning, not a whole lot was happening, mostly delivery trucks screaming down the narrow streets.