Charlotte Blodget's Trip from China
Following is a transcription of my great grandmother Charlotte Barrett Blodget's (Richards, 1857-1948, Gran's mother, known to her grandchildren as "Nanan") journal in which she describes her journey from Peking, China, to Andover, Massachusetts, in the spring of 1874, written a year later. Charlotte was born in Shanghai in 1857, where her parents, Rev. Henry Blodget (1825-1903) and Sarah Ripley Blodget (1822-1914) were missionaries. They were in China from 1854 to 1894, first in Shanghai, then Tientsin, and finally Peking. Charlotte traveled to America in 1859, and back to Peking in 1870. She was 17 years old when she made her final journey back to America in 1874, with companions Miss Andrews and Mrs. Holcombe (she never used first names).
Sarah Ripley Blodget and Charlotte Blodget Rev. Henry Blodget Sarah Ripley Blodget
Spelling of many of the names and places is just a guess, her writing was occasionally hard to decipher. At some point in the future she tore out some pages, probably stuff she considered embarrassing. I've added the old photos and postcards. The journal starts out with a prayer.
Connect thy way unto the Lord, [?] also in him; and he shall bring it to pass.
I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help. Not slothful in business; fervent in spirit; serving the lord.
Be not succumb of evil, but overcome evil with good.
Above all taking the shield of faith where with ye shall be able to quench all the fiery darts of the wicked.
Charlotte Blodget, c 1875
[page torn out]
Friday, the 27th of March [1874], when we started the finishing of the sewing and the packing. Together with the last week's experience, had well nigh used Mother up. Miss Louis came over one day and helped, or I don't know what we should have done...
[page torn out]
Jan 24, 1875 - A long time since I wrote here. But I will go back [to March, 1874]. We stopped at the Sheffield's, said goodbye, went on to the Chaplin's. Took tea there, and about half past seven took our departure there. How will I remember Miss Porter standing there in the gateway that dark March night. When shall I see her again. After some words with the boatmen they finally concluded to push off. We anchored however soon after we got out of the canal into the river. No persuasions could induce them to go further and Father did not think it best to use anything effectual.
We started early the next morning and made a very good run that day, passing "Ho hsi mo"[?] some time in the afternoon I think. Sunday we lay still all day. A furious dust storm raged outside, so Mother and I kept close by on the boat, but Father went out and preached.
About one o'clock at night, Father got up and started the men. In the afternoon a head wind sprang up, and that together with the tide delayed us somewhat, so that we did not arrive there till eight or nine o'clock.
March 30 [1874] - Father went directly up to Mr. Stanley's and he came back to the boat with him. We concluded to stay on board the boat that night as it was getting late. The "Shantung"[?] was there expecting to leave on Thursday so we took passage on her.
Tuesday morning we went up to Mr. Stanley's and we were glad enough to leave our close quarters where we could scarcely stand upright and shake off some of the dust with which we were covered.
We had a pleasant stay in Tientsin, had quite a number of callers. Went to Mrs. Innocents[?] to tiffin Wednesday noon. Tuesday noon before we had left the dinner table the rest of our party made their appearance. They had already been down to the steamer, moved their trunks there, dressed and had their tiffin. Mr. Holcombe is a driver, and when he undertakes anything it is pretty sure to be carried through "sharp".
The steamer was to sail Thursday morning April 2 at daybreak so we went aboard the night before. Of that night I will say nothing. Father and Mr. Holcombe went as far as Laku with us. They did not have to leave till after tiffin so we had a good half day. We passed the Shanse[?] on the bar, and she picked up Father and Mr. Holcombe at Laku a little above. The Shantung[?] was lightly loaded so the screw did not go very deep into the water, and it was perfectly beautiful to watch the spray. It was like fairy-land. I can't begin to describe it. It seemed to me I never saw anything so beautiful.
We went right to work, writing letters to send back from Chefoo. We played anagrams once or twice and had a fine time. There were only two other passengers besides our party, so we had the saloon [sic?] pretty much to ourselves, and we had a very cozy time working, writing and reading.
We reached Chefoo Friday morning, April 3. Found Capt. Pattersen there just leaving for Lhoulsin[?], so we finished our letters and sent them. The Capt. found, much to his disgust, that we could not leave till the next day, so we went on shore to see some of our friends there. We found that they lived at quite a distance, upon the hill, so we borrowed a chair for Miss Andrews at the American consul's, and started off. It was quite a hard pull for us pedestrians, but we survived it, though we were quite tired and glad to rest when we arrived at our destination. We had a cup of tea which refreshed us, and after a pleasant call went on to Miss Downing's, she met us cordially and insisted on our taking off our things and staying to tea. As the afternoon wore away a rather uncomfortable sensation within reminded us that we had had no tiffin and that the good dinner which we knew would be ready for us on the steamer would not be unappreciated by us. However I think no such motive would have prevailed, and we should have stayed but Miss Andrews was not feeling well and did not dare to be out after dark, so we concluded one had better return in time for dinner. We went to one other place, I believe. The view from the hill was very fine, commanding the whole harbour. The evening breezes were beginning to spring up, and it was quite cool before we got to the steamer and we were not ungrateful for the warm fire and dinner we found there. The next morning was spent in writing, and after sending our letters ashore to be picked up by the next northwest bound steamer, we weighed anchor April 4 and again were ploughing the ocean wave.
We had a delightfully smooth passage. The Capt. said it was rarely so smooth. Everything on the steamer was so clean, rather a contrast to dirty Peking. Monday afternoon April 6, about half past six, we were moored to the dock at Shanghai. Mr. Allen was waiting for Mrs. Holcombe and he invited Miss Andrews too. I received a kind note from dear Mrs. Gates inviting me to her house and I was glad enough to go. I received a [?] on motherly [?] and I do love Mrs. Gates so much, she is just as good and kind as she can be.
The steamer for Yokohama did not leave till Saturday morning, so we had quite a stay in Shanghai. We had a good deal of shopping to do, both for ourselves and our friends in Peking. Thursday night Mrs. Gates took me to a concert. Madam Annabella Goddard, a famous pianist, had just arrived from England. Mrs. [?] the soprano. I can't say I enjoyed them very much, especially the latter. Their costumes didn't suit my taste - they were very low-necked. There was one that I liked very much. A young lady played a piano accompaniment for her father's flute, and the whole thing was pretty as it could be. She did not wear low-necked. The flute air was beautiful.
I went to see Mrs. Holcombe once or twice. I had the funniest invitation to one place. I met Mr. Sprague at Walton's, and he said Mrs. Muirhead had invited them to dine there and to extend the invitation to our party. Later in the day Mrs. Holcombe came over to see if I would go. I told her I did not want to go, and she said she didn't either, and if I did not go, she wouldn't. Miss Andrews she said, was not able to go. So we decided we would not go. I believe Dr. Treat went as the sole representative of the party. He afterwards told me that he was a little late and they were all seated at the table, and there was jot even a place set for him. Mrs. Muirhead had forgotten all about her invitation to us: so we were thankful that we had not gone.
Mr. and Mrs. Seaman were at Mrs. Gates, they had just got back from Hong Kong, and were delighted enough to be back again in Shanghai. They hoped to stay permanently. Mr. Seaman is a delightful tease and I enjoyed him immensely.
I wrote three long letters to Mother while I was in Shanghai, but did not hear from her at all, for no steamer arrived from the north. We expected the Shanse which we had met at Laku daily and hoped that we might see the Chuen also, for Capt. Patterson had said he should see us again at Shanghai. But we were disappointed, for no steamer came. But Friday night would come when we had to go aboard the Golden Age. How well I remember that drive. Mr. and Mrs. Gates had gone to a concert and the brougham came back to Laku [?] the steamer. Mr. Seaman had to ride on the outside. It was a lovely drive, the night was clear and the stars shown brightly. Just before getting to the steamer we had a beautiful view of the French and English lands. The street lights and the brilliantly lighted houses made a beautiful picture. Mrs. Holcombe and Miss Andrews and Dr. Treat were already there. Mr. and Mrs. Seaman stayed a little while and talked after seeing us comfortably settled, and then went away. And so our steamer life began, a ceaseless round of joy for me. I saw Mr. Lambert that evening, he came on board to see Miss Andrews I believe, and I think it was he who introduced Pastor Carleton, one of our fellow passengers, to us. Saturday morning we wrote short letters to go by the pilot.
Golden Age
Left Shanghai April 11. There was a Mrs. and Miss Nelson on board bound for America, and Mr. Kelley. I don't remember any others from Shanghai bound for America. On Sunday it was a little rough. Mrs. Holcombe and Miss Andrews were both seasick, indeed I think they gave up the day before. Dr. Treat read the service.
Monday, April 13, about noon I think we arrived at Nagasaki. Again we entered that beautiful harbour. Everything was so beautiful, so green and fresh; such a contrast to the land we had just left. We steamed in and out between the lovely islands and finally dropped anchor in the deep blue harbour of Nagasaki. We went ashore soon and spent the afternoon wandering around the town, in and out of the stores, examining everything, and returned to the steamer without a single trophie to tell its tale of an afternoon's work. We looked especially at tortoise shell, for that is the specialty of Nagasaki.
The next morning we went ashore again. We went first to see some of the missionaries. It was quite a climb to get to their houses but we found them at last, nested up in some sheltered nook of the mountain, protected from the rough winds by "mother earth". Mr. Ploit[?] and Mrs. Lombadjo[?] went with us to help us with our shopping, and again we ransacked the place. I made them an offer for a tortoise shell chain and cross, but they didn't seem inclined to take up with it. The more I thought of it the more I wanted it. I knew it would be suitable to wear on all occasions, and a nice thing to have, and also I know the present Mr. Hunt gave me was sufficient to buy it with. We consulted our watches to see whether here would be time to go back to the store and get it and found there was the steamer was advertised to leave at twelve o'clock, so we had to be on the look out. We hastened back to the store and with some difficulty the bargain was concluded. Dr. Treat bought a watch chain. We were in such a hurry that there was not even time to make them up, so I put mine on and have worn it almost constantly ever since.
We started from the pier at Nagasaki to go to the steamer about twenty-five minutes before twelve, which allowed us plenty of time to get there. When we got about half way out, what should we see but the wheels of the steamer beginning to turn. We were quite alarmed, for that looked really like starting. Mrs. Holcombe was inside the little "sanpan" and so could not see, so I kept her harrowed up with accounts of how we were going to be left. I saw that the cable was still out, and concluded that the anchor could not have been taken up, and yet there was smoke coming out of the smoke-stack, and the great wheels slowly but surely kept revolving. What could it mean we were at a loss to conjecture. We were glad to have companions in misery for several other boats were waiting also. Finally the engine stopped, and much relieved, we mounted the gangway, with more haste than grace. And after all our haste the steamer did not start for about two hours. Left Nagasaki April 14.
There was a Mr. Utley who came on board at Nagasaki, and I used to enjoy watching him pace the deck, he walked so erect no matter what the weather was. He was in the navy, so I suppose that is where he learned to walk so straight. I think it was between Nagasaki and Heiago[?] that we got up early on the morning to see the scenery. At any rate, it was while going through the Liminosaki[?] Strait, wherever that may be. The scenery was beautiful, the strait was very narrow, and the hills and plains on either side were covered with verdure. Occasionally the smoke from some little village was to be seen. We arrived at Kobe Thursday the sixteenth of April, quite early in the morning.
Mr. Greene came on board before we had finished breakfast, I think, and invited us to go back with him. We were soon on our way. Miss Andrews took a pinichshe [peniche?] at the pier, but the rest of us walked. Kobe also is a beautiful place, I think I should prefer living there to Nagasaki, though the country itself is not so beautiful. It is less hilly, and consequently easier to get around. It is said to be the best laid out settlement in the East. Most of the millionaires live on the hill a little back of the foreign settlements; their houses all command a fine view, both of the neighboring country and of the harbour. I think it is so grand to live in a seaport. So let the great steamers come ploughing in. I am extravagantly proud of the ocean and all that pertains to it. But I have wandered. We had a very pleasant morning at Mrs. Greene's, she is charming herself and has a delightful home. They were mourning at being obliged to leave it so soon. They expected to go to Yokohama in the early part of the summer. Several of the missionaries came on during the morning to see us, and in the afternoon we headed out shopping, Mr. and Mrs. Greene accompanying us.
We had quite a successful shopping expedition, bought quite a number of straw baskets and boxes which are the specialty of Kobe. Then we looked around the foreign settlements a little. We walked up the bund, and through the little park. It is a lovely place. We went back to the steamer for dinner, I believe. We wanted very much to go the next day and see the waterfall, which is about the only special sight to be seen there. Mr. and Mrs. Nelson had been there and were lavish in its praise. The next morning the Captain invited us to go with him if we thought we could walk as far. He said it was just about the length of walk he enjoyed, and he always went whenever he was in port. As Dr. Treat had gone to Osaka, we wanted to accept the Captain's invitation, but concluded that it was rather too long a walk. A little while after Mr. Carleton came and asked us to go with him, he said he was going to take a jin ricksha. We used the opportunity gladly, for we wanted to go so very much. Miss Andrews did not feel able to go, and she was invited to spend the day at Mr. Davis's, I think. We took jin rickshas at the pier and started off. T'was a lovely ride. We overtook Capt. Cay before we reached the foot of the hill where we had to descend from our jin rickshas. It was a steep hill to climb, and we got quite tired before we reached the fall. Capt. Cay passed us and got up first. The fall was not a very high one, but a beautiful one. I enjoyed the view though as much as anything. The grand old ocean, stretching over almost limitless space, was in full sight, here and there dotted with a ship bearing its precious load of human souls... homeward bound perhaps. The country was so beautiful there. The trees were all in full blossom. It is said that the Japanese cultivate the trees for the sake of the flowers only.
From the fall we went to Mrs. Greene's. Dr. Treat came back from Osaka in the course of the morning. I believe we had all been invited to Mr. Davis' to dinner, but some of the other missionaries thought it was not quite fair for us all to go to one place, so we divided off. Mrs. Holcombe and Miss Andrews staying at Mrs. Davis', and Dr. Treat and I going to Mrs. Berry's. I was delighted with both Dr. and Mrs. Berry. They are so nice, and they have such a cozy home. My tooth had been troubling me somewhat since I left Shanghai, and I made up my mind that it must come out, so I screwed up my courage and actually asked Dr. Berry to perform the pleasing operation. After looking at it, he though it might be saved, and gave me a little of introduction to the dentist at Yokohama, whom he knew to be a skillful and reliable man. At gunfire we hastened back to the steamer. We had quite a socking time of it getting out to the steamer; our little sanpan rolled around famously. Left Kobe April 17.
It was quite rough Friday night and all day Saturday, and lots of the people were seasick. I lost one meal between Shanghai and Yokohama, but I don't remember where. At one of our stopping places we combined and bought a box of oranges, and consequently felt it our bounden duty to eat them up. They say oranges are the worst thing for seasickness, and one day when it was quite rough I ate six. I began to feel rather uncomfortable about tiffin time; however, I managed to stay through, but as soon as I got up to my stateroom I consequently disposed of the contents of my stomach and as it contained nothing but oranges, I laid my indisposition to that fruit and not to the weather, for I was in much rougher weather and not sick at all.
This Saturday that we were out at sea, I sat on deck most all of the morning. Mrs. Holcombe came towards the latter part of it; and we watched the waves together. Oh! it was grand! The great waves would dash against the steamer and make every timber shiver. The white caps were grand, such immense ones they were, rolling over one after another and dashing to pieces in foam. We stayed out as long as we could, but finally got so chilled through that we were obliged to beat a retreat, which was rather a difficult thing to do, as the steamer was rolling so, we could scarcely keep our feet. I had succeeded in getting a little way and was leaning against the compass stand for support, wondering whether I could get to the cabin door or not, when Mr. Utley, who had been pacing the deck, came to my assistance, and by his help I reached the door safely. Mrs. Holcombe came in a moment after. We sat down on one of the sofas nearest the end of the salon, not venturing further for the present. Pretty soon such a sound greeted our ears! Some poor wretched being was rather seasick, and oh! such a noise he made. We kept our faces straight as long as possible, but our attempts were useless. Notwithstanding the presence of a gentleman quite near, we burst out laughing (so did he for that matter) and laughed till we were tired. The sea began to calm down a little towards night, and we knew we were drawing near smoother waters. The next morning, Sunday, April 19, we anchored in Yokohama harbour. I got earlier than usual to get a good view of Lusijania[?] and was well repaid for my effort stayed on deck till just before we dropped anchor.
We went ashore to church that morning, and it seemed so nice to get into a church again though it was a small one. It was Mr. Lyle's chapel. I don't remember whether we went to church again in the afternoon or not. I forgot to say that the night before after dinner Mrs. Holcombe went out on deck for our usual promenade; after we got tired walking, we sat down on one of those large hanging chairs. Mrs. Holcombe got up at the head and I cuddled down at her feet. We were having a nice cozy little chat when Mr. Utley and Mr. Spoor (I think the other one was) came up. We stayed there and talked, I should think as much as an hour, perhaps more. We had a real nice time, they were real nice. Mr. Utley was a midshipman on board the Palos[?], which was then in Nagasaki; he was on his way home to be examined for promotion, I believe. Sunday night Dr. Treat and Miss Andrews went on shore for a meeting at the "Ladies Home" I believe. Mrs. H. and I went out on deck as usual and again curled up in our chair, never of anyone's coming [?], but before we had gone Mr. Utley made his appearance; we were very much surprised for he had been on shore all day. He told us considerable about life in the navy, and I think it must be pretty. He said he had received orders not to go home and he seemed so disappointed. I was real sorry for him; he wanted Mrs. Holcombe; he wanted Mrs. Holcombe and me to go to Yidds[?] with him; we knew Dr. Treat was going , and we thought it would be nice to go all together. I believe we spoke of Tuesday for going, but as Dr. Treat was not there we could not say definitely, he said he would come in the next day. When we told Dr. Treat of it, he did not like it very well: he wanted to know if anyone introduced him, he said he was not a fit person, that was notorious all over Nagasaki. This was in the evening, and pretty soon he came in to see about the final arrangements. I've made a mistake, Dr. Treat didn't tell all this till after Mr. Utley had gone and all arrangements were made. So Mrs. Holcombe determined she would write a note and send it early the next morning, telling him that we couldn't go, but just then he passed through the saloon again, and Mrs. Holcombe called him and told him. He seemed disappointed, and we were too. After he had gone Mrs. Holcombe and I went out on deck where we could be alone and talk it over, for some things Dr. Treat had said we rather aggravating. We thought he must have heard exaggerated of Mr. Utley for he seemed such a pleasant young fellow. We were seated in the same old place, when we heard a step on the deck above us, and pretty soon down he came. We were surprised for we supposed of course he had gone. We had a real pleasant little chat, not quite so long as the others had been. The principled thing he could talk about was his disappointment at not being allowed to go home. I pitied him so much, he spoke of his [?] mothers and sisters, he seemed so young to be so far way. After he went away that night we saw nothing more of him. But we learned a little more about him. Mr. Stout and someone else from Nagasaki came on while we were there and Mrs. Holcombe asked them if they knew anything of Mr. Utley, and they had never heard of him, so we thought that proved that he wasn't known all over Nagasaki. Afterwards Mr. Spoor told us more about him. He said he was only nineteen, and the reason he was not allowed to go home was because he had left debts behind him in Nagasaki. He said he was of a good family, and had wealthy parents, but he would get led off by others, he would get drunk; Mr. Spoor said he had made arrangements with a friend, who would be responsible for his debts, and hadn't drunk any for a long time; but when he was forbidden to go home, he was so disappointed that he took to drinking again and finally was kept on the gunboat and forbidden to go ashore, he was transferred to the Laco[?], which was in Yokohama. I pitied him from the bottom of my heart, so young and so far way from friends. I wouldn't have a brother of mine in his situation for a good deal. He was very agreeable in conversation. I wonder what has become of him.
Monday morning after breakfast we got ready and then set off with our satchels, etc. Mr. Ballugh, I believe that is the way his name is spelled, invited us to stay at his house, but we thought it would be too much trouble to have our luggage moved there. Miss A. took a jin ricksha but the rest of us walked. We started for Cuno[?] street. We saw lots of odd things, I bought a few things. What tempted me most were the silk mappers[?]. Sophie's was the first one I saw, and Mrs. Seaman in Shanghai had one. They are lovely, and I should like one ever so much if I were not in school. Mrs. Holcombe ordered a lovely one, light blue lined with silver grey, it was made to wear either side out; the drab side was [?] with blue blue pockets, cuffs, and collar, and vice versa. They brought it to the steamer the next day all finished and only charged twelve dollars.
After a long day of it we returned to the steamer just in time for dinner, pretty thoroughly tired out. Tuesday we were invited to spend the day at the Ladies' home. We started soon after breakfast in order to do a little shopping first. We had a delightful day at Mrs. Pruyn's'[?] and made such pleasant acquaintances. I can't remember their names now, but some of them (people not named) were lovely. I saw there Mrs. L. R. Brown whom Mother knows so well. She is a darling. They lived right next door to Mrs. Pruyn. She invited us over to tea and Mrs. Holcombe and I went.
We had a real nice time at Mrs. Brown's. Her daughter Miss Walter[?] and her niece Miss Wynn[?] were there. Dr. Brown was in Kobe and also her son Robert. We had some music which I enjoyed so much. Both Miss Haltic[?] and Miss Lou played and sang. Wednesday Dr. Treat went to Yeddo[?], and I think we went shopping in the afternoon. We made an arrangement to meet Mrs. Brown at one of the stores, and she went with us. I bought some brown silk to trim my [?], and finally concluded [?] the present which Dr. Williams had made me, in a silver grey silk dress. Mrs. Brown said they were very well indeed and that it would make me a useful dress. Mrs. Brown invited us to her house to make a little visit while we were there. So we accepted, and said we should be most happy to go Friday.
Thursday we spent on the steamer. It blew furiously and rained too. The steamer rocked considerably and Mrs. Holcomb and Miss Andrews felt rather the worst for it. I didn't realize that it was anything extra ordinary till the next day on shore everyone spoke of the severe storm that we had had. Dr. Treat came back from Yeddo on Thursday and in the evening the [?] for Japan came in.
Friday afternoon we went ashore again. Mrs. Holcombe and I went to Mrs. Brown's and Miss Andrews to Mrs. Pruyn's, and I am sure I don't know where Dr. Treat did go. We had such a pleasant time at Mrs. Brown's. We had lots of music. They had two of the cutest little dogs I ever saw. One of them especially was so tiny. It was a little black and tan terrier. If you said rats to him it would almost set him in a conniption, he would scratch away at the carpet, so fast that you could hardly see his little paws fly. In the morning Mrs. Lowder came in and she wanted us to go over to her house for a little visit so that we could tell Mrs. Bartlet about it. I had such a nice time, but the afternoon would [?] away, and we had to go. Mrs. Brown went with us, and we called on Mrs. Lyle. She was at home but confined to her room. I went up and had a real pleasant call. Mr. Lyle was not at home; I was so sorry to miss him, but I met him on the street, so I did just see him.
We also called on Mrs. Hepburn's that afternoon, and then started for the steamer the last time. I was quite sorry to go for I had had such a nice time in Yokohama, but all tunes have an end and so our stay there did. The "Japan" was a great deal longer than the "Golden Age" and so much more comfortable. It was very noisy that first night for there were so many going and coming. On the 26th of April we set sail.
Mrs. Holcombe and Mrs. Wilson were to occupy the same stateroom according to their tickets, but Mrs. Holcombe did not want to, nor did we want to have her, so we thought we would try it three in a stateroom and slept so two nights. Sunday was rather a dreary day, being our first day out, and before we had gotten acquainted with anybody. We had not then been seated at the tables, and the captain did not make his appearance till Monday morning I believe. We had a funny experience then. The lock on our door was out of order, and it was with difficulty that we could lock it Sunday night, but we finally succeeded. We found it rather tight quarters trying to dress, so we would have to get up first and sit on the berth and give the others a chance. So Monday morning we were a little late; after we were ready we tried to unlock the door. Miss Andrews first, then I for I was sure my strong fingers would succeed, but all the efforts were of no avail, each of us tried several times, finally one of the servants, surmising probably that we were locked in, came to the window, we handed him the key, hoping for a speedy release. Not succeeding from the outside, he thought he could from the inside, so he climbed into the window, but his attempt proved useless, and we didn't know but we should have to make our exit through the window. Finally the steward came to our relief and with another key with some difficulty unlocked the door. The captain was at the table that morning, and was rather surprised at seeing us all come from the same room; during the afternoon he moved two or three of the passengers, and so gave us two rooms adjoining for which we were deeply grateful. It would have been dreadful if we had had to be all there in one little room for twenty-three days.
It did not take us long to get settled in our new quarters and we enjoyed them very much. We got acquainted with a number of the people, and especially with those who were on the "Golden Age". We sat at the other end of the captain's table, opposite us sat a Mr. and Mrs. and Miss Mendelson. They were Jews I believe, but they were real nice. Mr. Mendelson especially; he was a case, always saying something funny. They had the dearest little boy I about ever saw. I think he was about two, and so cunning. I sat third from the end of the table and next to me was Miss Nelson, opposite her sat Dr. Van Reyfren[?]. I did not see much of him during the voyage, except at the table. There was a Mr. Farnham, and his daughter, who came through from Hong Kong. Miss Farnham was a great friend of Miss Nelson, they knew each other in Shanghai. There was also a Mr. Wiggins from Boston, I believe, and his two daughters. They were traveling around the world. We saw little of them, they did not seem inclined to an acquaintance and were rather supercilious. Mr. Carleton introduced to us his friend Mr. Endicott, who was rather quiet and consequently made friends more easily than those who were the opposite. We saw a good deal of Mr. Carleton for his room was opposite ours, so when ever we sat in the saloon during the daytime or evening we were naturally at the same table. We saw a good deal of Mr. Spoor[?] too. He came around to see Mrs. Holcombe since Mrs. H. would not play cards they had to resort to backgammon and would play it by the hour almost. But of them all, I liked Mr. Kelly the most. In fact, I was quite smashed over him and all the more so because he did not come around very often. He was mighty nice, and just as funny as he could be, but in a quiet way that was all the more pleasing to me. He lives in Providence.
We always went up for a promenade on deck after dinner. Everybody turned out there full force. One evening I was walking with Mr. Kelly. We had just philopened [Philopena: A game in which a person, on finding a double-kernelled almond or nut, may offer the second kernel to another person and demand a playful forfeit from that person to be paid on their next meeting. The forfeit may simply be to exchange the greeting "Good-day, Philopena" or it may be more elaborate. Philopenas were often played as a form of flirtation.] that evening and I did think I could remember it for a little while at least. But no, I must go and forget immediately. He had something in his hand and for want of something better to say I asked what it was. For an answer he handed it to me and I like a little goose took it. He quietly said philopena. I had forgotten completely and done it all as innocently as possible, but of course he wouldn't think so. Mr. Kelly would come around occasionally when I was writing down in the saloon and get hold of my pen and scribble away; he spoiled a pen holder for me, but it was of no great consequence, for it was not the one I used. I wouldn't let him take my gold pen. He told me of a new kind of ink he had, just the thing for traveling he said, all he had to do was to pour water into the inkstand, and there goes the ink all ready to use, and when you are through, pour it away. It was all very nice to talk about, but it needed a very steady hand to do the pouring. Ah! the trials I had with that ink, I don't know but I have some of the remains of it now. The first time I tried it I got in too much water, and it went all over everything, so by the time I had wiped it up my hands were pretty well dyed, and I believe there was a stain on my face even. I think the servants must have been rather surprised at the way I went for vinegar.
I philopened with Mr. Carleton several times. The first time we did it, it was in the evening and I got it on him very cutely, but he said it was not fair to do it the same day you had philopened. I didn't agree to that, but did not say much, and the next got it on him again. Then he was fairly silenced and couldn't say anything. But I was good enough to tell him how I managed to remember, which was by changing a ring, so what does he do but get out a ring, we he had not worn for some time, so of course he could easily remember. The next time he philopened me in the cutest way: it had been going on for some time, I had changed back my ring and forgotten all about it. One day I was coming down from the deck in a hurry, for the gong had sounded for tiffin, when just as I got in the little passage in front of my door, I dropped my shawl, and before I could pick it up, Mr. Carleton stepped out of his room which was right opposite ours and picked it up and handed it to me. I took it and thanked him, and he said philopena.
There was an awning up on deck, and we used it to stay out there a good part of the day. We had lots of fun pitching quoit and tossing bean bags. We played anagrams quite a good deal in the evening during the first part of the voyage. Dr. Van Reyfren always joined us, he was very fond of the game. Captain Freeman came once or twice too to play. Capt. Freeman was very nice, I liked him ever so much. He was real kind to all the passengers. Twice he sent us in a plate of fruits. I made lots of [?] during the voyage. I made eight new collars just before I left home. So I felt it my bounden duty to make trimming for them all, which I did. One day I was talking with Mr. Kelly. I had my work in my hand; I had just begun the piece. Mr. Kelly said he didn't believe I could finish it before the first of May, which was tree or four days off. I said I could and would. He said if I wore it before the first of May he would cut it up. I worked pretty steadily, and by the next night it was all done and partly sewed onto the collar. The day after I finished sewing it on, and wore it most triumphantly, Mr. Kelly was obliged to retract what he had said about its destruction.
I can't begin to write all we did on the steamer, suffice it to say I had a splendid time. We all pulled with a good will, but it was so warm the candy wouldn't harden. The day before we got into San Francisco Captain Freeman took us up on the wheelhouse and opened one of the hatches and let us look down. Oh! It was fascinating to watch the great wheel revolve and see the spray so far below us. We saw a number of whales blow that day. The water began to lose its deep blue and grow green so we knew we were nearing land. I was almost sorry, I had enjoyed myself so much, I shouldn't have objected if the voyage had lasted another twenty-three days.
About six o'clock just as we were going to dinner we sighted the Ferra Lones [Farallones], the first land we had seen for twenty-three days. About eleven o'clock we dropped anchor, off North beach I think, waiting for the morning to got up to the dock. We were up early the next morning, Mrs. Holcombe and I, that is, and we had not been long on deck before one of the officers of the steamer I believe brought up someone who wished to see us. He was a traveling agent whom Mr. Low had sent. He (Mr. L.) had engaged rooms for us at the Cosmopolitan Hotel.
The Cosmopolitan Hotel
I wanted to dance for joy when he, the agent, handed us a card in Mr. Low's familiar handwriting. We packed up all our things, and about eight I think it must have been, Mr. Low came on board, and we were so glad to see him. He looked just as natural as ever; and it was so nice to see the face of an old friend.
We had no trouble at all with the customs house official. Through Mr. Low's influence our trunks were all chalked without being opened. We went up to the hotel and soon were nicely settled. Then we went down for breakfast, for we didn't have any on the steamer. Oh! the strawberries, it makes my mouth water to think of them.
We arrived in San Francisco on Monday morning the eighteenth of May, and found that we could not leave before Thursday. The daily trains for the east were crowded to over flowing. After breakfast that Monday Mrs. Holcombe and I started out to do a little shopping. After going into several wholesale stores we succeeded in finding a retail one, and bought some ruffling. In the afternoon Mr. Spoor came and took us to the Woodward's Gardens.
It is a lovely place but it would take too long to describe it, especially as I have already done so in a composition. Tuesday I had a call from John Hincks [first cousin, I believe], and in the afternoon he came and took me to drive. We had a lovely drive out to the Cliff House. I enjoyed it so much, but I enjoyed most the glimpse of the ocean which we had out there. The great waves came rolling in and dashed themselves to pieces on the shore, reminding me of what I had lost. Wednesday I stayed home and wrote a letter and packed my trunks. Mr. Low came to see us every day and we enjoyed his calls so much.
Mr. Kelly and another gentleman that came on the steamer were at the Cosmopolitan also, but we should hardly have known it for as they did not call on us, it was by mere chance that we saw them occasionally in the dining room. Wednesday night Mrs. Holcombe and I went down to dinner quite late. After Dr. Treat and Miss Andrews had had theirs, Mr. Kelly was at the table opposite ours and after he was through he came over and we chatted quite a little while. He knew we were going away the next day and came to say goodbye. That is the last I've seen or heard of him. When we got up to our room we found Mr. Low there. Afterwards Mr. Harris, Mr. Farnham and his daughter and Miss Nelson came in to say goodbye. All these with ourselves made quite a room full and it was very awkward for I hadn't finished packing my trunk and my things were all scattered about the room; and to make it worse, a man came to rope up our trunks while they were all there and I had to finish packing them before them all. We started the next morning about half past six I think. We had to cross the bay to Oakland and there take the cars [the transcontinental railroad]. Mr. Spoor went on at the same time and we saw a good deal of him.
We suffered a good deal from the heat for the first two days but after that were not troubled with it nearly so much. Mrs. Holcombe decided to go straight on, for if she did not she would have no opportunity to see her brother in Chicago for more than a little while at the station, and by going on she would a day or two. Dr. Treat, Miss Andrews, and I went on to Salt Lake City. Dr. Stone[?] and another gentleman from San Francisco were on the same train, also bound for Salt Lake City but I did not see of him till after we left Ogden for Salt Lake City, a four hour ride. Then we rode together in the same seat. He is perfectly splendid, I fell in love with him completely. He opened the conversation by saying he didn't see how a young lady could make such an elaborate toilette, referring to my hair, when traveling. I replied I did not consider that elaborate, that it was the easiest way I could do my hair. I don't know as that was his very first remark, but it was not far from the first.
When we arrived at Salt Lake City, May 23, Mrs. Jones was at the station to meet Dr. Stone and she invited us all to her house. I did enjoy my stay in Salt Lake City so much. Mr. and Mrs. Jones were such pleasant people, never once did we feel as if we were in the way and yet it must have been a good deal for her to take on three with no warning whatever. They must be well off for they had a very nice house and everything seemed still more delightful for we were just from the heat and dust and noise of the cars. It was such a relief to have room to turn around and take off our dusty clothes and have a bath. As Dr. Stone passed our door in going downstairs, he knocked and called out I hope you are not going to touch that hair. I laughed to myself, for it was already hanging down my back.
Salt Lake City temple under construction
In the afternoon we drove out to see the [?]. We went first to the temple. It is building, and it said it will probably never be finished. Next we drove around to the tabernacle.
It does not appear to be very large from the outside, but once inside its proportions seem miraculously to increase. I believe it seats fifteen thousand. The organ is immense, it is said to be one of if not the largest ever made in America. Mr. and Mrs. Jones and Dr. Stone were with us, or rather we were with them. We next went and called on Mr. Brigham himself; he had previously made an appointment for Dr. Stone, so the rest of us went on his ticket - "as it were". Then Mrs. Jones, Miss Andrews, and I went down to the church or rather the room where they hold their services. It was to be received or recognized as a church the next day (Sunday) and that is what Dr. Stone went to Salt Lake City for. Dr. Stone made some absurd remarks during the ride. I believe he knocked his hat accidentally against something and I said, "I hope it was not injured". He said, "Oh! no, it is no matter as long as my back hair is all right".
Dr. Stone wanted me to go back to San Francisco with him and go to Mills Seminary [then a young ladies' seminary, the first women's college west of the Rockies], but finding I was not to be persuaded, he said he should expect a letter soon after my arrival in Andover telling him that I was ready to start for San Francisco. Sunday evening before the service began as I happened to look around, who should I see but Dr. Van Reyfren, one of the passengers on the Japan. I was delighted enough to see a familiar face. I sat up till after two that night writing to Mother and was up again the next morning before five. We had not been long in the cars before Dr. Van Reyfren made his appearance and we saw a good deal of him till we got to Chicago, where our roads diverged.
Devil's Slide
That morning we passed the "Devil's Slide", the "Thousand Mile Tree", and several other famous places. We had very comfortable quarters. Miss Andrews and I had a whole section all to ourselves, [?], though Dr. Treat was there a good part of the time and Dr. Reyfren made not infrequent calls. The latter named gentleman was very nice indeed. I liked him ever so much. He knew Sophie Williams, met her in Shanghai. There were some real nice people in the car in front of us. One girl, Cora Whiteman I believe her name was, was a very nice girl. Iroquois.
In the afternoon we had a number of games of anagrams, Dr. Van Reyfren and Miss Whiteman joining us. We would take the longest word one could think of, "transcontinental" was one of the words we tryed. There was a melodeon in the car in front of us and we used to go in there in the evening and have some music. We had on board one of the French communists Rochefort [Victor Henri Rochefort, Marquis de Rochefort-Luçayand] one night they sang "La Marseillaise" for his benefit. We used to stand on the platform a good deal for it was so warm.
May 27 we arrived in Omaha. We changed cars there and went to Chicago, on the Burlington and Quincy Route. Dr. Van Reyfren went on the same route, for which I was not at all sorry. There was a commissary car attached and we had such a nice dinner that night. It was soon detached though and a sleeper put in its place. Dr. Van Reyfren and I were standing in the end of the car just about dusk when the porter came along and said there were plenty of empty sections in the next car if we wanted to go there. I couldn't help laughing right out , it was so amusing. He, the porter, evidently thought we wanted to be alone. However we did not accept his invitation but remained where we were. I joked Dr. Van Reyfren somewhat about the Misses Wiggins. I'm sure I don't think they would feel very much complimented if they could have heard his comments on them. He spoke of the younger one particularly, she had been abroad studying. He said she didn't know anything, couldn't talk on any subject. Once when we went out to get dinner I sat between Dr. Van Reyfren and Dr. Treat - the latter was entirely taken up with a lady next to him, one of the passengers he didn't take any notice at all, whether I was helped or not, but my left-hand neighbor was more observing and I did not suffer for lack of dinner. We separated at Chicago with a prolonged handshake, he said he hoped we should meet again somewhere, a wish I echoed, but probably that will never come to pass. In a letter he wrote to Dr. Treat he said, "Remember me to Miss Andrews and Mrs. Holcombe and particularly to Miss Blodget, with the evidences of whose character I was impressed. I hope the stern realities of life may never dim her fair youthful visions of happiness". That is it as nearly as I can remember. Quite a grandfatherly wish. Dr. Treat showed me that letter with two or three others...
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... out of the room pretty quickly, for I was mad. The idea of her saying that to me. I don't like him one bit, he treats me exactly as if I were a child.
We arrived in Chicago May 28th. Before we had left the cars in Chicago, Mr. Porter and Mr. James Porter came in and Dr. Treat's father also. We crossed the city to another depot and there we saw Mrs. Porter. We had to wait about an hour and we had such a nice visit together. I was so glad to see Miss Porter's father, mother, and brother, for I could write her all about China. I told them all I could about the dear absent daughter. Mrs. Porter is so sweet and they are all just as nice as they can be. We were very [?] to stay over night in Chicago...
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... goodbye to our friends and soon were speeding again on our way eastward. We took the Pittsburgh and Fort Wayne Route and it was so beautiful. There was a little boy on board, traveling with his aunt, who seemed rather inclined to flirt. We helped him out, for it seemed so perfectly ridiculous was so small. He didn't look any more than thirteen or fourteen, but I believe Dr. Treat, who has a gift at finding out ages, ascertained that he was sixteen. However he was small in stature and we did not refuse to carry on the pleasing farce. He was on his way to New Haven to attend the grammar school there. We passed through the smoky city of Pittsburgh some time on Friday, then on and on till about ten o'clock we crossed the beautiful Susquehanna and entered Harrisburg. We soon returned to our berths and were oblivious to what passed till about five the next A.M. when we were obliged to rouse ourselves and prepare for another move. We arrived in New York June 30.
Mary Thurston Blodgett, 1818-1882
We waited in New York and hour or two and then started on. Mrs. Holcombe's brother met her in N.Y. Dr. Treat telegraphed to Henry [her brother, studying at Yale] to meet me in New Haven, but he was out when the telegram came and didn't get back in time. The train rapidly flew on and about half past one or two we reached Hartford. There I felt that my long journey was at an end and I was rather regretful that I could not travel any more. Henry came up on the five o'clock train so I did not have long to wait. Oh! it was so good to see him again, my darling only brother. He and Andrew [Charlotte's cousin, Andrew Hammond] had both grown of course, but otherwise they did not seem to have changed and Aunt Mary and Ida [Andrew's mother Mary Ripley Hammond and her daughter, Florida Hammond] were just the same. I stayed in Hartford nearly two weeks, and then came on to Andover.
Had the necessary sewing done and then went down to Bucksport [Maine, where her grandmother, Mary Thurston Blodgett, lived]. Henry went too and we had a delightful summer there, came back to school [Abbot Female Academy, in Andover] the third of September, and here I am just finishing my third term [May 1875].